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A Taste of India in Yangon

We live in a world where borders are mere political demarcations, not cultural or culinary, and these ubiquitous forms move beyond any man-made divisions. Cuisine forms a major part of cultural practices that connect people and ways of life. India is a close neighbor of Myanmar, and its influence on the local cuisine is evident, seeing the use of herbs and spices, and so many common dishes adapted from the Indian repertoire. This can be attributed to not just the thousands of Indian immigrants, but also because Indian food is tasteful, nutritious and makes for a complete balanced meal. These are now an integral part of Myanmar cuisine, the taste and cooking style strikingly similar to the original Indian preparations. The older generation of Myanmar folk, claim to have grown up eating more Indian food than any other. Apparently, the Chinese and Thai influence on food and tastes in Myanmar came up later.

A walk down Anawrahta Road or Mughal Street in downtown Yangon, is a treat for all Indian food fans. A haven for vegetarians, these areas are also home to a large number of Indians, and typically symbolize the Indian influence in Yangon. There is no dearth of stalls selling Indian samosas, the deep fried vegetable-filled wantons, pakoras or vegetable fritters, dosa or wafer thin crepes made out of rice and lentil batter, and the mouth-watering biryani, an elaborate rice and meat preparation containing a medley of spices, and a complete meal in itself. Indian sweets, snacks and spices are all seen in abundance in this area, and eaten while on the move. It is not difficult to cook Indian food in any corner of the world, even with non-Indian ingredients, since it is all about the method of cooking and handling foods. The unique taste and consistency comes from the type and degree of heat, the oil and sequence of adding ingredients that make all the difference.

Myanmar, with its amazing variety of vegetables, provides ample variety of foods that can be cooked in an Indian style. Herbs and spices needed for an authentic Indian taste can be found in one of the many grocery stores, which also stock wheat flour and long grain rice. In fact, Myanmar’s basmati rice is very close to its Indian counterpart and cooks just as well. A wide variety of leafy vegetables, okra, pumpkins, beans and lentils, mutton, poultry and seafood, found here, make cooking Indian meals at home far easier than it would be in western countries. Ready to use pastes, bottled spices, pickles and chutneys, have now reached the shelves of supermarkets in the city. Myanmar, as the largest exporter of beans and pulses to India, provides the entire range of lentils that all Indians love to eat on a daily basis. It is only here that many of us have tasted the unpolished varieties of lentils that are healthier to consume, and taste a lot better. The time when Indians carried bags full of their favorite foods from India, is a thing of the past. One is indeed spoilt for choice when it comes to preparing an Indian meal in Myanmar.

Yangon is not just the nation’s commercial hub, but can easily be termed the country’s culinary capital as well. Some of the country’s best restaurants are found in the city, including the best Indian ones. For a quick, simple meal in downtown Yangon, one can walk into the packed New Delhi restaurant, Nepali Food House or Ingyin Nwe. New Delhi is a small nondescript eatery offering a whole thali, a plateful of dishes including vegetables, curry, chapatti and rice. Nepali Food House serves both Indian and Nepali vegetarian food at unbelievably low rates. Ingyin Nwe offers delicious dosas and wide ranging South Indian fare at very reasonable prices. A new entrant is Titu’s Banana Leaf that has opened just behind Trader’s Hotel (now called Sule Shangri-La). It serves sumptuous South Indian delicacies including non-vegetarian dishes. Another new Indian eatery named AV’s has brought in favorite foods that could be called Indian fast food, which include plated meals from various parts of India, along with elaborate Indian sweets. Biryani is sold in many places and is a favorite of tourists and locals alike. All these restaurants, though, suffice for quick meals, when the ambience is not a concern. They are frequented by tourists looking for vegetarian meals, since Indian cuisine is one that offers the widest range of non-meat options.

With a fast growing expatriate Indian community, places like Titu’s and AV’s are gaining popularity, and are suitable for low cost family dining. Indian fine dining is an option at the well known five star hotels like the Sule Shangri-La, Park Royal and Sedona, all of which have had Indian chefs ready to toss up personal preferences even beyond what is listed in the menu. As of now, there is only one stand alone up-market Indian restaurant, namely, The Corriander Leaf. Started in December 2011 in the Yangon International Hotel Compound, Ahlone Road, it serves authentic Indian cuisine with a wide variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes prepared by their four Indian chefs. The restaurant, with its 118 covers, is almost always full for both lunch and dinner, with tourists, locals, and expatriates, most of whom are repeat customers. For those enjoying barbecued foods, this is the best place to dine at, for unmatched and delectable Indian tandoori specialties. With plans to open an outlet in Mandalay and another one in Yangon in the near future, Corriander Leaf may continue to reign supreme. Indian cuisine is as diverse as its ethnic groups residing in its 29 states, and its most popular dishes from North and South India, have found their way into every corner of the world, including Myanmar. It is only a question of time before we get a taste of more and more regional Indian cuisines here, in this Golden Land.

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Finding A Decent Apartment in Yangon

Myanmar is touted as one of the top tourist destinations for 2015, and the year drawing to a close, 2014 has seen 2.7 million tourists already. By the end of December, the number is expected to touch the targeted 3 million. People from overseas, love the quaint beauty of Yangon and Bagan, enjoy the local food as much from upscale restaurants, as the street hawkers, and are awestruck by the magnificence of the pagodas, especially the unmatched beauty of the Shwedagone Pagoda. A day, a week, a month, in this exotic land, is a treat of a different kind, where one sees untouched natural beauty, simple, friendly people, though products and services seemingly belong to an era long forgotten elsewhere.

Continue reading “Finding A Decent Apartment in Yangon”

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Myanmar Cuisine – Ohn-no Khow Suey

My first memory of Khow Suey was of a one-dish meal that looked so very appetizing and presentable, and such a welcome change from staple Indian fare that we ate day after day, with minor variations. This was over two decades ago, when the noodle craze, and fixation for Chinese food was abating, and ‘noodles in gravy’ with an endless line of condiments to be added seemed a delectable novelty.

Many countries and cuisines later, my interest in Khow Suey remains, except that I now happen to be living in the country of its origin. It is in Myanmar I learnt that the version of this dish I like, is called Ohn-no khow suey, meaning noodles with coconut milk gravy.

Ohn-no khow suey is one of the most palatable preparations in Burmese cuisine and is actually a breakfast dish, and relished by locals and foreigners alike, though the latter are happy eating it for meals during the day as well. No strong odors, while being appetizing and wholesome, Khow Suey can be made as a purely vegetarian dish as well, substituting fried tofu for chicken.

It is served with a long list of condiments for garnishing, which when arranged on the table, make it one of the most presentable single dish meals.

Just thought of sharing my recipe for Ohn-no khow suey, which tastes great, and has been enjoyed, both by family and guests.

INGREDIENTS

Noodles- thin or round wheat or rice noodles. Boiled drained, and twirled into rounds and kept separately for individual servings

For the gravy:

Boneless chicken- 500 gms, preferably from thigh

Onions- finely chopped-1 cup

Ginger garlic paste- 1 tablespoon

Vegetables (optional) – baby corn and mushrooms,  halved- 1 cup

Red tomatoes-pureed, 1 cup

Coriander powder- 1 teaspoon

Red chilli powder-1/2-1 teaspoon

Turmeric- ¼ teaspoon

Chick pea flour/Black gram flour/Besan- 2 tablespoons

Coconut milk-250 ml

Fish sauce- 1 tablespoon (optional)

Salt to taste

Oil- 3 tablespoons

Condiments

Golden fried sliced onions

Fried chopped garlic

Fresh coriander leaves, chopped

Green chillies- sliced, and soaked in light soy sauce

Spring onions, chopped with the green stems

Crushed, roasted peanuts

Lemon wedges

Red chilli paste, or red chilli oil

Boiled eggs, cut in wedges

Fried corn fritters

Method

Boil noodles and keep ready in a serving tray, twirled in single portions, or can even be placed in a bowl and served with tongs. A bit of oil prevents sticking.

In a pan, take two tablespoons of oil, add the chopped onions and cook till golden. Add a bit of water to prevent burning, and then add ginger-garlic paste, tomatoes, coriander, chilli and turmeric powders, and cook till oil appears. Now add chicken and a cup of water, and simmer till chicken is soft. Keep very little water in the gravy.

In another pan take the remaining one tablespoon of oil, add the flour and fry on low heat till it looks light golden in color. Quickly add coconut milk and simmer on low for five minutes. Add to the chicken, and cook for 5-10 minutes till it thickens. Take out in a deep curry bowl.

In small sauce bowls, place the condiments separately. Put them next to noodles and chicken.

Serve in soup bowls, first putting noodles, topped with gravy and then condiments of choice, or all of them.

 

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Myanmar’s Education System- The Need For Change To Promote Development

 

Education, or the lack of it, determines the level of human advancement and development of a country, and the onus of providing good education falls on national governments. History bears testimony to the fact that the quality of education is reflected in the success of its populace and the growth of its economy. Inevitably, all underdeveloped countries are found deficient in world-class education.

Myanmar, the erstwhile ‘pariah’ nation, is waking up to the need to improve and ideally, revolutionize its education system. Having once had a highly reputed system and being called the “pride of Southeast Asia”, Myanmar’s education system was used as a role model for other Asian nations. Today, it needs international involvement in education more than anything, and private participation to improve and extend its reach to the outer periphery of the nation. As one of the three least developed economies in Asia, Myanmar needs highly qualified locals to push the country out of its current state of underdevelopment and haphazardly slow growth.

The ground reality today

With a 92% literacy rate, and over 156 institutions of higher education, it is surprising to see the dismal, outdated education system. On 9th May, 2013, Myanmar’s opposition leader and Nobel Peace Prize winner, Aung San Suu Kyi appealed to universities in UK to help in rebuilding Myanmar’s higher education system that has been crumbling consistently under decades of military rule. Her fervent appeal reflects her strong desire to see the education system reinvigorated so that the local youth are able to acquire expertise and knowledge to take the country forward.

Little wonder then, that those who can afford foreign education, move out to neighboring countries, while others try to pursue degree courses available. In Yangon, the country’s commercial capital, hundreds of youngsters are seen working as waiters and waitresses in restaurants after degrees in physics, chemistry, and others, while engineering graduates are content with secretarial jobs in foreign companies setting up offices in Myanmar. One wonders why there is such a strong mismatch between qualification and jobs taken up. A closer scrutiny of capability and potential reveals their hard working habits, but caliber and capability is nowhere near that of engineering graduates from developed or educationally advanced countries. Abundance of low-level training, severe dearth of high quality coaching, no accountability or accreditation, explains this.

The reasons for this mess in education, are not far to seek. The military rule led to decades of civil strife that only saw gross under-investment, decay, and universities were closed for years at a stretch, following student unrest in 1988, opening only intermittently subsequently. English was replaced by Burmese as the medium of instruction and social sciences were largely removed from the curriculum. Justifiably then, English skills are minimal, and restrictions limit learning at all levels.

The number of schools cannot possibly cater to the population, with remote areas seeing one school for five villages, and in border areas, a single school caters to students of 25 villages. This leads to high student-teacher ratios and overcrowded institutions.

Primary schools see high enrolment rates and a high dropout rate of nearly 50% according to UNICEF. The same holds true for secondary schools. There are approximately 7.5 million students at all levels of education, who need to depend on after-school private tuitions to be successful. Corruption makes it impossible for the poorer students to progress and better schools are reserved for influential families. Grade eleven signals completion of high school and students must appear for a university entrance examination to proceed for a university degree for which private school students are not eligible.

Women and education

Women form 50% of the work force in Myanmar, and most schools teachers are women, besides forming the backbone of organizations. Monastic schools are mainly for boys, and lower enrolment of girls in remote villages is common. Poverty also forces girls to be kept at home, which explains a lower female literacy rate of 73% despite the government’s efforts to maintain gender equality through legislation and concerted efforts to eliminate female illiteracy, providing vocational training to women, and encouraging them for higher education through scholarships.

The role of monastic schools and NGOs

Monastic schools have played a major role in educating children especially those from the poorer rung. Though often limited to boys, they have bridged the gap left by state education. Every village may not have a school but surely has a monastery, that takes on the role of education provider, albeit informally. The parallel, secular system provided stretches beyond religious teaching and over 1180 monastic institutions are recognized by the government for providing co-education. Of these, five monastic schools are registered as high schools. A bridging system is also in place to help such children to be absorbed into the government schools. In keeping with the pace of development, these schools have started providing vocational training, developing computer skills, and trying to assist students gear up to face challenges at the work place.

NGOs have been pitching in, to feel the gaping holes left by government inaction in the education field. For instance, AusAID is investing over $80 million spread over four years to promote primary education. DFID is funding UNICEF’s basic education program with a USD 16.4 million grant. USAID has been focusing on education of migrant labor and the displaced workforce in border areas. Out of all the local NGOs, the Myanmar EGRESS has been contributing substantially to enhance educative skills of the youth.

The NGO directory lists 57 NGOs involved in education, which include monastic schools, church-based institutions and Islamic organizations. If self-help groups and smaller voluntary organizations were to be added, the number would more than double.

Private education

Private schools mushroomed in the 1990s and they were free from government regulation and control. They have been set up with the profit motive seeing the huge demand, and are providing primary as well as secondary education. International schools have brought in global standards and summer schools provide English and other courses, and have in a way reduced the pace of mass exodus of good students from the country. In a place where good education implied foreign education, the international schools are also way beyond the reach of most of the locals, with their high school fee structure and culture of plenty.

However, this has created a vast disparity and widened the gap between the haves and the have-nots. There are no private institutions of higher learning at present.

The need of the hour

As the country retraces its steps towards the path of development with a civilian government in place, systematic education, rather the lack of it, has made the government and specifically the President, define the country’s educational goals:

  1. Free primary education to be compulsory.
  2. Enhance the rate of enrollment for basic education.
  3. Improve the quality and capacity of teaching staff.
  4. Provide scholarships, locally and internationally.
  5. Involve private sector in education.

Budgetary outlays have been hiked from 1% to 5.84 % of the annual budget, which though highly insufficient, are somewhat better and reflect the government’s seriousness.

However a lot more needs to be accomplished, like renovation of schools, initiating teacher training programs, provide better books and equipment, attempt focused curriculum development and reintroduce social sciences to enable students to develop critical thinking skills, and change focus from learning by rote in a test-driven system to one of exploration and understanding.

A study of educational best practices to incorporate them into Myanmar’s education system, and seeking international assistance to develop a progressive education system, is critical for the present.

Reason to hope

Myanmar is one of the few growing countries, with some estimates indicating doubling of its GDP in the next five years. Development of the right talent will open avenues for other countries as well. The government has made the development of higher education systems a national priority.

For a country whose people value education so highly, the only way to develop is by giving them what they treasure, and enable them to participate in the country’s development.

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The City of No Two Wheelers

A drive around Yangon will reveal traffic with a difference, especially when compared to other Asian countries. The city roads are crammed only with four wheeled vehicles.

Yangon is perhaps the only city in the world where two wheelers are not seen on the roads, or at least, ridden by the common man. You do see the police and military personnel using them as part of security while escorting senior officials, and yes, the lone rider who is seen stopping every few meters to switch on the street lights. This was intriguing at the outset, till research revealed that motorized two wheeled vehicles were banned in Yangon. In March 2010, a select few organizations were given permission to use two wheelers in Yangon, primarily due to the needs of the job. Approximately 120 two wheelers are used by policemen, personnel from the intelligence agency, and members of the Union Solidarity and Development Association.

The two wheeler family includes scooters, motor cycles, mopeds and bicycles. Countries like India, Vietnam, China have roads crammed with two wheelers, as they meander between cars to reach destinations sooner. Bangkok even has motor cycle taxis, which are so convenient, and the fastest mode of transport literally till the destination doorstep.

For those accustomed to seeing two wheelers whizzing past, speeding and racing, often threatening four wheelers, Yangon appears different and one is challenged to pinpoint the biggest reason behind this difference. Seeing only four wheelers plying on all the roads, makes the roads more congested though there is a semblance of uniformity in the vehicles standing in lines at traffic lights, with no motorbikes jumping queues and crowding at the start of the queue.

Obviously, this puts the common man in a quandary since everyone cannot afford cars. Public transport is one option, and the second and equally popular one, is the truckbus – what I would call a lorry, which has a covered back, and seats at the back, accommodating 8-10 in smaller ones, and 15-20 in bigger ones. It is also customary for the work place to provide such transport to its employees.

The rest of the country sees motorbikes in thousands. Figures revealed, indicate that there are 1,880, 986 two wheelers in Myanmar. In case the ban is lifted in Yangon, the number will doubtlessly increase by tens of thousands, as urbanization and development of industry makes people find affordable accommodation on the fringes of the city. Big brands like Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Piaggio, Peugeot, and others are eyeing this as a huge market.

Two wheelers offer freedom, speed and less commuting time, despite the dangers of  two wheelers and exposure to the elements and pollution. More affordable for the middle class, they save on fuel as well.

On the road, two wheelers can be risky too, since the incidence of accidents increases, and injuries are more severe. It is difficult to decide whether the ban on Yangon is good or bad, but while it lasts, the city is a safer place.

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An Expatriate’s Experiments with Fish

As the aircraft begins its descent towards the Mingladon airport, the view from the window is of numerous water bodies, the Yangon River, several lakes, besides small ponds and streams. Myanmar has a 1930 km coastline as it borders the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea. Further inland, there are large rivers like Ayeyarwady, Sittuang, Chidwin, Thalwin and a part of the Mekong river basin that stretch across 2000 km besides another 2600 km of their tributaries and smaller rivers. It is only natural then, to find an amazing variety of fish and seafood in Myanmar.

Fish, along with rice is principal staple fare for the people of Myanmar, who love small fresh fish with their meals, besides using dried fish and fermented fish paste in plenty for numerous exotic preparations. A distinct fish aroma permeates the air especially around eating places, which one gets accustomed to, gradually.

For someone who has grown up in a landlocked place, fish is an acquired taste, enjoyed, but even after decades of eating it, reservations persist about quality, odor, and freshness, and many a time I can’t help wrinkling my nose. Bones of the smaller fish scare me still, and I have never quite understood how native fish eaters are so comfortable with such fine bones, seemingly in tens, in a single piece.

In the last three decades, I have lived in places like Kolkata, Singapore and Bangkok, all of which are famous for fish and seafood, and widely perceived to have some of the world’s freshest fish varieties. But it is here, in Yangon, that I have found the fish to be the freshest, and hence completely odorless. The fish available in the market passes the freshness test I learnt-the meat is pink and moist, the scales are intact, the color is not dull and the gills still look pinkish red and not brown. Not knowing the language, the easiest was to buy fish initially from Citymart that carries the English names of the local fish varieties on sale. However, in a matter of days I found the Inya Road market, one of the many wet markets around town, and the fish on sale there, seemed even fresher. I somehow found it close enough, convenient, clean and cheap, and it has been my fish source for nearly two years now. It was here that I discovered the following:

  1. Rohu- NgaMyit Chin – I was thrilled to find this freshwater brackish fish on my first trip to the market. Easy to identify, this is one of the most popular fish varieties cooked all over Asia. Though bony, it belongs to the carp family, grows up to 200 cm in length and can weigh up to 45 kilograms. And the bigger the fish, the tastier it is. Rohu has a smaller head and silver scales that darken with a tinge of red closer to the tail, and is generally big in size. Not too fond of smaller, finer bones for fear of choking, I prefer to buy the middle section of a big fish and prepare it like an Indian curry, to be eaten with rice. At Inya market, the fish vendors cut the fish into perfect pieces for curries and frying, and even remove the skin and scales completely, if preferred. Once cut, the meat is pink. It cannot be made into boneless fillets though. A dash of mustard, a mild flavor of garlic, Rohu makes for the most sumptuous afternoon meal.
  2. Katla- NgaThaingGuangBua- Katla is another carp variety, a scaly freshwater fish that has a marked resemblance to Rohu, in size and appearance, except that it has a much bigger head and an upturned mouth. It is thicker around the middle and its deep body helps in differentiating it from other fish. Again, it is bony but with lighter pink meat when cut. Here too the midsection is the best cut. Native fish eaters love to prepare fish-head curry, while I am happy preparing a coconut milk based curry out of small less bony pieces, happily leaving the skin, scales, head and tail for the fish vendor!
  3. Mrigal- NgaGyin- It took me a long time to find the English name for Nga Gyin, that everyone spoke about. It is actually ray-finned white carp. It is one of the most popular widely cultured fresh water fish varieties with fine white meat inside its silver, scaly exterior. Again a freshwater fish, it survives in fast flowing streams and grows extremely fast and up to a maximum length of one meter. The first time I bought Nga Gyin, I found it to have a very fine taste, and have since, used it for frying and mild gravies.
  4. Hilsa- Nga Tha Lauk- The hilsa is a fish of the herring family, extremely flavorful and delicious. It is a silver colored tropical fish with a purple overtone and easily identifiable amongst the other varieties. For the people of Bengal and Bangladesh, it is the ultimate delicacy with its soft, smooth and creamy taste. The hilsa has an interesting life pattern since it spends its life in the sea and then migrates for spawning up to 1200 km inland through rivers. This migration typically takes place during the monsoons. The fish breed in freshwaters and then move to the sea as the young ones grow. I had been hearing of hilsa for years in Kolkata, but could never attempt eating it due to its hundreds of fine bones. I was pleasantly surprised to try Hilsa prepared Myanmar style at a friend’s place, where it had been soaked overnight in vinegar, which melted its bones completely and I was able to savor every bit of it!
  5. Butterfish- Nga Dang and Nga Myin – I loved this fish the first time I ate it, primarily because it was boneless. With a big center bone that is easy to remove it can be cut perfectly into fillets and cubes. I am told that there are two varieties of butter fish, the lean nga myin that is the dearer, finer butter fish, and one that is true to its name, and loaded with butter-the layers of fat are visible and just have to be discarded-this is nga dang, the cheaper variety, delicious but probably too fatty, unless stripped clean of all the surrounding fat. This fish is ideal for frying, grilling and barbecuing, and seemed to lose its softness when I once to prepare it as a curry. Butter fish stands out as a fresh water fish, with its smooth silvery skin, darker on top and nearly white below, and a flat body that is extremely broad in the middle.
  6. Seabass-Nga Ka Kadit- Seabass is an old favorite available in other countries, and always a safe bet, having neither a strong odor nor too bony, and its fillets are the easiest to cook. It took me a while to find out its local name, where after it was easy to buy.  I learnt that there is extensive pond culture of seabass, which besides the local market is exported to Australia, and its culture is being encouraged since it is a species easy to produce, and highly lucrative. Seabass catch comes from shrimp ponds as well. It was interesting to find out that a new variety of seabass is cultured in easntern Myanmar and has been named ‘lates uwisara’, as a tribute to the famed Myanmar monk U Wisara who died while on hunger strike to revolt against British rule. Seabass is universally liked and adapts to all styles of cooking, retaining its taste, texture and moisture, as it melts in the mouth.
  7. Grouper- Nga Tauk Tu/Nga Kya Uk- The day I find a Red Grouper in the market becomes a feast day, since I love to steam it whole, with fresh herbs and spices, and serve with the flavorful Myanmar Basmati rice. There is a vast market for Grouper and it is also exported live, mainly to Hong Kong. I did not know that twenty varieties of Grouper can be found in Myanmar waters, and are now cultured in ponds and net cages. However, it is not one those fish varieties that are seen every day in the market, and never in plenty. For me, red Grouper stands out with its orange red colored scaled body and more often than not, one finds small sized fish weighing up to 2 kilograms.
  8. Tilapia- Nga Yan- I believe the local people call it tilapia also. Tilapia is an easily available fresh water fish, and now being cultured extensively to feed export markets including the vast US market since the import ban was lifted, where it is the fourth most popular plated fish. Its high protein content and fast growth makes it easy to farm besides being highly lucrative. Tilapia tastes best when grilled, but it is not one of the fish varieties I buy often. It is supposed to be rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids, but then that’s true for other varieties as well.

The list can go on, but I probably will not even be able to find local names for the numerous varieties available and enjoyed by the locals. There is plenty of fresh and dried fish available in the markets, but I understand that though fish exports must be permitted after local consumption has been provided for, this is not generally the case. Lack of sufficient data prevents an accurate calculation of the gap between demand and supply of fish for local markets. As of now, only a handful of  the 450,000 fish and shrimp farms are able to produce fish that matches international standards, and this has led to a decline in export earnings by the fishery sector by over $116 million over last year. This is disappointing since fisheries stand third in earning foreign exchange for the country.

There is obviously a tremendous opportunity waiting to be tapped to its fullest potential with Myanmar’s abundant freshwater and brackish water fisheries. The vast river systems run from north to south in the country and offer promise of tens of thousands of tons of marine products and seafood. It is only a matter of time before foreign investment and participation in introducing the latest fish culture and farming techniques yield seafood that is comparable to the best in the world.

Myanmar Fish Facts

  • Aquaculture has grown tremendously in the last ten years.
  • The most extensive fish culture operations are in the Ayeyarwady Division
  • The Rakhine state is a significant area for fish farming and the largest for shrimp farming.
  • 75% of the total fish produce comes from marine fisheries while only 25% comes from freshwaters.
  • Cold water fisheries are confined to the four hilly, remote states of Chin, Kachin, Shan and Kayah.
  • There are 450,000 fish and shrimp farms but they lack capital and the latest technology to meet international standards.
  • The common man prefers fish also because the price ratio between red meat and fish is 4:1.
  • Official figures reveal that fish consumption is three times more than meat consumption.
  • Myanmar boasts of vast wild fisheries even today

Fish & Health

  • Fish is the healthiest meat to eat, being highly nutritious and easily digested.
  • Most fish have a 15-20% protein content, and most have essential amino acids
  • Fish contains unsaturated Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids that work as heart protectors.
  • Contains B- Vitamins like B6 and B12, besides Vitamin D.
  • Fish is a good source of minerals like iron, zinc, potassium and phosphorus.
  • Fish lowers blood triglycerides, and reduces heart disease risk.
  • It is also good for the brain and prevents brain related diseases like Alzheimer’s and dementia.
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Nine foreign banks get licenses to commence limited operations in Myanmar

 

Myanmar’s financial services sector is still in a nascent stage of development and while other sectors have opened up, the banking sector has proceeded similarly just a month ago, when the government issued preliminary licenses to 9 foreign banks to start offering some basic services to foreign companies operating in Myanmar. Thankfully, the interests of the local banks have been protected at the outset, but there is hope that this will spur the local operators towards better performance and adherence to international service standards.

I remember my first trip to Yangon in October 2012, and I had the privilege of seeing the first ATM machine being installed. By the time we moved here in January 2013, a handful of them had been installed, but getting cash out of them was not a given-they worked sporadically. So, removing all credit and debit cards from our wallets was the first thing we did each time we returned to Yangon. It is habit that continue-carrying paper money is preferable to plastic, and I have tried using an ATM card to withdraw cash at least six times, but not succeeded with a successful transaction even once. However, I do see hundreds using them and successfully I am sure, I have just become accustomed to the way of life prevalent in the 1970s in India.

Myanmar today has state and private local banks, with the latter offering far superior services and are positively flush with funds. Yet businesses have limited access to funds and loans come with only high collaterals.

Foreign banks had been allowed to open representative offices as a precursor to applying for a license. License applications were invited in May 2014, and 30 international banks applied for the same, of which 25 were shortlisted. It was only on the last day of September that nine banks were allotted licenses. These include ANZ, Bangkok Bank, UOB Bank, Industrial & Commercial Bank of China, Mitsubishi UFJ Financial Group, Sumitomo Mitsui Financial Group, Mizuho Financial Group, Malayan Bank and Overseas Chinese Banking Corp.

All these banks have been given twelve to build a single branch in the country, and while they cannot start retail banking operations, they can assist foreign businesses and deal only in foreign currency. If these banks wish to deal with local currency, they will be permitted to do so, only in partnership with a local bank.

While these licenses have ushered a wave of optimism, local businesses will continue being dependent on local banks, whose interests have been protected. But growth and development requires funding which will take a long time to come.

But perhaps, in the growth story, every little step counts. And hopefully the banks winning the preliminary licenses may bring in a wave of transformation in the banking and finance sector.

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Myanmar’s Best Wood Varieties – Teak and Beyond

For as long as I can remember, the mention of furniture and wood used for making it, inevitably included mention of “Burma teak”, with a bit of awe, reverence and a hint of exclusivity. Obviously, at even a tender, young age, I realized Burma teak was a cut above the rest. I had never dreamt that one day, I would be living in the land of Burma teak, see meters’ long logs of superior quality timber moving to borders and ports, to be exported to neighboring countries, see exquisitely carved wooden structures, many of gigantic proportions, and admire the distinctive grain of wood that add character to furniture adorning our homes.

Thankfully, as of 31st march 2014, timber logs can no longer be exported, and only export of value added wood products is permitted. The motive being, to encourage the growth and development of a wood processing industry, which will yield higher revenue, improve tax collections and offer employment opportunities to the locals. This will also prevent drastic climate change and soil degradation.  Hence, sawn wood, and finished food products can be exported. This is of course, limited to the legal export segment, the illegal export sector continues and smuggling of the finest quality timber is rampant, almost as much as before. The illegal export segment accounts for 75% of Myanmar’s timber trade and accounts for over $6 billion, as stated by the Environmental Investigation Agency.

It is rather sad, that natural national treasures weave their way into foreign lands, and some of the finest woods like padauk and tamalan, face the threat of being completely logged out in 3-13 years, according to current demand trends, if drastic measures are not taken to protect these top wood varieties. Both padauk and tamalan are no longer available in abundance. Even the grades and girths of teak are seen declining over the years.

Chinese imports of redwood and rosewood continue and most of the Tamalan and Padauk end up in China, making them endangered. Teak is not far behind, and experts are fearful of its supplies dwindling rapidly too. According to Global Witness Research, nearly the entire forest land along the China-Myanmar border has been completely logged out, and Chinese logging companies are moving further inland into Kachin state for sourcing timber, albeit at higher extraction costs.

The import ban imposed six months ago, should help, if government authorities implement it sincerely. Hopefully, the age of exploitation of Myanmar natural resources of wood especially, might just be nearing its end.

Myanmar offers some of the finest timber from natural forests, and the government is mulling over the idea of curtailing timber extraction. Teak plantations are expected to grow and expand in the coming years, unfortunately though, plantation teak is nowhere close to naturally grown teak, in terms of beauty, hardness, and durability.

Myanmar Wood Varieties

Myanmar’s forests covering 70% of the country’s land still, offering wood varieties like, teak, padauk, thinlwin, tamalan and many others. Both hardwoods and softwoods come from natural forests and plantations, the former being way superior to the latter.

  • Teak – Over two-thirds of the world’s teak resources lie in Myanmar, which remains the most forested country in the Greater Mekong Sub-Area. Teak is beyond doubt the most preferred wood for indoor furniture and outdoor use due to its inherent strength, while remaining light in weight. It has a naturally high oil content that makes it resistant to pests, does not rot and even holds up against the elements, bending but never breaking. Teak does not splinter and therefore does not need to be sealed. Its grains are distinctly straight, and occasionally interlocked. Teak is golden in color, tending towards brown, and darkens as it ages.

The trees grow nearly straight up to a height of 130 ft, and yield timber of three grades- A, B and C. Teak of A grade quality is representative of mature hardwood, that has been well seasoned besides coming from at least a 20-year old tree, and is of the highest quality, and therefore also the most expensive. A-grade teak shows grains that are closer since this quality comes from the most dense innermost section of the trunk, the color is golden and a hint of oil appears on touch. A harvested tree yields only a quarter of the total wood of A-grade quality and this partially explains its high price.

Grade-B teak is the less mature or immature heartwood forming the outer layer after the mature heartwood, but is enclosed inside the sapwood, that qualifies as C-grade teak. It is easy to differentiate with its less uniform grain, less oil and a duller appearance. This makes it cheaper as well.

Grade-C teak is called sapwood and forms the outer most layer of a harvested tree. It is the part of the tree that is still growing and carries nutrients to the rest of the tree. Its grains are further apart, and lack of a uniform color. It is neither as strong nor as resilient to the elements, and being inferior to the other grades, it is the cheapest type of teak.

The pros and cons of using teak for various purposes help in making the right choice.

  • Padauk – This reddish wood is simply exquisite to look and work with. It is one of the more decorative hardwoods and some of the finest padauk is found in Myanmar. The reddish tinge turns into a brown over time. Its highly visible grain is interlocked and its texture quite coarse. Found in Africa, Thailand and Myanmar mainly, its higher density makes it tougher to work with. Of all these Myanmar Padauk is the toughest and heaviest, and comes from the upper mixed and dry forests in the country. It is highly durable, decay resistant and long lasting.

Padauk trees resemble the elms, gaining a height of 120 ft and a girth up to 7 ft. They flourish in tropical climates in both rain forests and dry plains. The reddish tinge changes to maroon when exposed to sunlight. It is ideal for carving and crafting into interesting shapes even while remaining sturdy and durable.

Unfortunately, massive logging and exporting of Padauk has led to a dwindling supply of this premium wood in Myanmar. It is highly sought after in Hong Kong and China, where a considerable proportion is sent illegally. With the new ban on timber, it is hoped that the small amount left in the country can be preserved through restricted logging.

  • Tamalan – This is one variety of hardwood that one falls in love with, at first sight. It unique color and exquisite grain pattern is eye-catching, especially when seen in a hand crafted piece of furniture, polished to preserve its natural color and grain design. Belonging to the rosewood family, tamalan is an extremely high value wood variety, highly durable and resistant to the elements and termites. It is easily amenable to carving and ornamentation and its natural color adds to its beauty.

Tamalan grows in colder tropical regions and the Myanmar regions of “Mansi” and “Mankat” in the Sagaing Region, have the forest reserves where tamalan grows.

Tamalan, is nearly disappearing from Myanmar, the country that provides some of the best quality tamalan, due to huge demand from China where it is used for making the high premium, hongmu furniture. Experts believe that it may become extinct in less than three years due to the rate at which it is being logged and illegally exported.

 

The list of Myanmar wood varieties is long, but these three are by far the best, even as they face the threat of extinction in the next decade or so.

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Renting a Home in Yangon

Rents and Yangon’s Real Estate Reality

Myanmar figures high on the list of governments, NGOs and companies, to set up offices and explore opportunities to capture a segment of the nearly 60 million consumers the country has to offer, till recently starved of the latest in products and services. This probably explains the full flights, overcrowded airport and an increasing number of expatriates looking for places to stay, not to mention the locals returning home, often after decades of being overseas.

Even a city like Yangon is not quite ready to provide quality homes and offices to so many people. Latest construction features are not easy to come by, and upscale, modern condominiums can still be counted in single digits. Bungalows are available more easily, but again, very few qualify as modern. It is disappointing to see run down places put up for rent, and owners ask for atrociously high rents. Many house owners, living in their houses, wish to move out and expect prospective tenants to move in to the house, as it is, without their having to spend any money to upgrade, renovate,clean or improve the premises. It is only the very few owned by Myanmar people living overseas that are better to consider renting.

In the last twenty months of being here, we have seen rents sky rocket, and have had to helplessly pay whatever the house owner demands, for an apartment that could be rented at 45% of our present rent in places like Bangkok.

The reasons for this, are not far to seek. There is a clear demand supply imbalance, with expatriates moving in with their families and wanting good homes…to make up for what seems to be missing in the city and country. As Myanmar opened its doors to foreign companies, scores of employees have been brought in, to fill key positions and spearhead the market invasion envisaged, to create a name and place for their products. Senior positions obviously mean that the accommodation provided is of a certain standard.

Till 2012, many expatriates would move in alone, and stay in serviced apartments at Sakura Residence, Golden Hill, Micasa or Marina, Inya Lake Hotel, and more recently,  Shangri-la Residence.  The Grand Mee Ya Hta in downtown Yangon, next to the Scott Market, was a favored residence for corporates, but it is closed now and likely to be pulled down.  The trend has changed visibly with families moving in now, and there is a need for larger apartments that look and feel like home, not a hotel.

Bungalows or stand alone houses appeal to many wanting a taste of living with a garden, double storeyed living areas, and abundance of space. However, here houses pose challenges since there are power failures, which means having power backup that has to be switched on each time-it may not always be easy to find an automatic switch over. Internet connectivity, satellites for television programs, switching on water pumps to ensure continuous water supply indoors, keeping a bug free home, not reacting to lizards and snakes, are some of the challenges which many of us find daunting. Of course, we learn to live and let live, and we scale down our level of expectations of both standards and services.

There are endless stories of expats who rented landed property initially, moved out and shifted to apartments at the first opportunity. A few select condominiums appeal immensely. These include Shwe Hintha, Mindamar, Golden Rose, and a handful more, which offer facilities like gyms, swimming pool, security, and perhaps some English speaking service staff.

Things to remember while renting a property

  1. Rent for a whole year is to be paid in advance
  2. It is still an owner’s market and everything depends on his whims and wishes
  3. Demand for quality residences far outstrips supply
  4. International standards need to be forgotten
  5. A few house owners are kind and considerate
  6. A three-bedroom apartment can cost between $4000-8000 per month.
  7. Real estate agents play a big role in controlling the rental market and even pushing up rents.
  8. Multinationals needing scores of apartments are willing to pay any amount to secure good homes for their employees, or else, few may want to stay for long.

Plenty of new construction is visible, and as a friend said, “two years ago I used to see Pagodas all around, now I only see cranes”.  People like me are waiting for supply to increase, quality homes to appear, and for us to have the luxury of choice. In another 12-18 months, some apartment building should be ready, and till then, we will have to accept the homes we are living in, and continue to pay sky high rentals.

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The Diary of a Vegetarian in Yangon

There was a time when vegetarians had to literally hunt for safe places to get a palatable meat-free meal once they stepped out of their homes. Thankfully now, vegetarian options are available in varying proportions across the globe. Vegetarianism is becomingly increasingly popular for numerous reasons, at least one of which is health. Living in Yangon as a vegetarian, is not really a challenge, but interesting culinary experiences give us reasons to smile, even here.

Myanmar with its wide variety of earthy produce, a phenomenal variety of greens, tofu and lentils, has endless non-meat options. In fact, it is easier to survive in Myanmar with such preferences than other tourist friendly Asian countries like Thailand and Malaysia. Myanmar cuisine has numerous vegetable-rich salads, soups that can easily be kept vegetarian as well as rice and curries that are delicious even without the addition of meats.  Yet vegetarianism is not very common among the locals, since dried fish, meats and seafood are added to nearly every preparation to make them tastier, nutritious, and more of a complete one-dish meal. The word to know is “thut-thut-lau” pronounced as “tatalou”, which actually means ‘lifeless’ but implies vegetarian. Interestingly, eggs are not considered to be non-vegetarian.

The ever increasing class of vegetarians can be attributed to the greater awareness about cruelty meted to animals, and also those who avoid meats for religious beliefs. Buddhism does not impose food restrictions but Hinduism does. Many Hindus are pure vegetarians and many are selectively vegetarian on specific days of the week and at certain times in the year. Myanmar has thousands of Indians residing for generations and though many have adapted to local tastes, an equal number have opted to stick to their vegetarian food habits.

Still, as vegetarians, we end up with interesting experiences that become amusing narratives later, the dismay and anger long forgotten. These are almost universal, and anyone with specific food preferences would have been through similar experiences in any country, be it Canada, Philippines, Argentina or any other.

A few years ago, I would have been appalled at the prospect of finding a dubious chunk of something chewy, halfway through my soup. Today, I just put away my plate, take a deep breath, and not think of what has already gone in. It is no longer shocking to ask for fried rice ‘thut-thut-lau’ and find pink, curled pieces of shrimp stirred in.  For many, being vegetarian simply means not eating pieces of meat, so soup, made of meat stock is fine as long as no pieces are visible. Adding fish sauce and shrimp paste to add flavor are also considered acceptable, much to the horror of those who would rather starve.  Some people are highly sensitive to odors and smells and can make out if a ladle of a meaty preparation has touched their food. I am grateful that I am not one of them, or else eating out would have been impossible. Yet I find it difficult to share a table where steamed whole fish is ordered, since I am convinced the fish is looking imploringly at me, to save it…now I try to switch seats so that I face the tail and not the eyes!

The variety on offer in Yangon is much more than other places in Myanmar, which have lesser number of tourists. This helps since it no longer necessitates eating rice with chili paste as I would have done a decade ago. The abundance of fresh fruit is a boon since these can be picked up and eaten on the go. New eateries from noodle shops to international chains like The Pizza Company are transforming the food scene in Yangon and vegetarian options are offered as well. Fine dining restaurants, street stalls and tea shops all have something for the vegetarian. The list of options is endless, whether you walk down Anawratha Road in Downtown Yangon, or along the upscale Dhammazedi. Myanmar cuisine is vast, and delectably so. Its repertoire of salads includes the exotic tea leaf salad made out of fermented tea leaves, rich in caffeine, and mixed with sesame seeds, crushed nuts, cabbage, onions, lime and garlic. Lemon salad is a tangy mix of cabbage, red onions, chili, and sesame seeds. Tomato salad goes beyond traditional tomato slices, to include peanuts, sesame, onions and garlic. Even more sumptuous is the eggplant salad made out of the smoked vegetable that gives it a unique taste. Soups are often thickened with cooked chickpeas, and common ingredients include, tofu, vegetables and noodles. Steamed rice is served with curries that are rich and thick, and can be made with vegetables instead of chicken, fish or red meats. Easily available cauliflower, cabbage, bamboo shoots, beans, potatoes and pumpkins, provide numerous curry options. Noodles are prepared with sauces and vegetables, to be eaten as snack or at mealtimes. Fresh juices, jaggery and coconut sweets serve as perfect accompaniments to a vegetarian meal.

Myanmar cuisine has a strong influence of Indian cooking styles and many common ingredients like beans and pulses, curries and similar style of preparing vegetables. Walking down the streets in the Downtown area, reveals endless stalls selling the ubiquitous Indian ‘samosa’, the deep fried, potato-stuffed wanton. A large flat pancake called ‘dosa’ is served with chutneys, potatoes and a lentil curry called ‘sambhar’, and makes for a delicious meal at all times of the day. The number of Indian eateries is also expanding. All star-rated hotels in Yangon have Indian meal options, and standalone restaurants are opening up. It is easy to find places offering a reasonable vegetarian “thali”, which is a plate of rice with a lentil curry, vegetables and a pickle, or even chapatti and lentil curry called ‘daal’, which is a rich source of protein. Myanmar is a leading exporter of beans and pulses, so the quality couldn’t be better!

Today I am happy with a tea leaf salad or even the Myanmar tomato salad, followed by barbecued or fried vegetables, a tofu noodle soup, some stir fried greens and fried rice. Who can ask for more?